Old Town Walking Tour
Old Town Route
The Old Town Walking Tour covers the lower part of Old Edinburgh
From the are called the Cowgate after the entrance the farmers brought
their Horses Cattle and live stock to market.
The Grassmarket was originally a horse market and other live stock and a place where executions took place.
We then go up the West Bow and Victoria Street known for its connection to Harry Potter.
Now on to George IV Bridge part of the New Town. Taking us t Greyfriars Kirk and a famous dog.
On to Chamber Street were the National Museum is situated and then to the
South Bridge and The University of Edinburgh
Cowgate Grassmarket
Blair Street
Merlin’s Wynd
Cowgate
South Bridge Vaults
Free Cowgate Church (stramash)
College Wynd Guthrie Street Scott Plaque
Old Fishmarket Close
Tailors Hall
George IV Bridge
Connelly Birth Place
Merchants of Edinburgh – Merchant Maidens Hospital
Magdalen Chapel
Livingstone Medical Missionary
Heads + Mission Building
Cowgate Church
Cowgatehead
Monastery
Knights Templar / knights of St John
Grassmarket South
Hunter’s Close Captain Porteous Lynching
Door Lintel
Heriot Bridge
Heriot Brewery
Salvation Army Hostel
Vennel Steps
Flodden Wall marker
Castle View Point
Flodden Tower
Telfer Wall
King’s Stables Road
Jousting Line
West Port Murders
King’s Bridge
Grassmarket North
Grannie Green Steps
Flodden Wall marker
New Greyfriars Mission
Grassmarket 500th anniversary Stone
Beehive Inn STORY
Old death cell door
White Hart Inn
Robert Burns Plaque
Zeppelin Paving Stone
Castle Wynd South
City Wall Wine Cellar
Last Drop Bar
Old housing Lintel inscription
Maggie Dickson
Grassmarket Mission
Smallest Pub
Gallows
Grassmarket Cross
West Bow Victoria Street South Bridge
West Bow
Old doorway
West Bow well
Thomas Weir
Lord Ruthven
Steps
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Victoria Street / Terrace
Diagon Alley Upper Bow
Quaker House India Buildings
George IV Bridge
Libberton's Wynd
County Building
National Library of Scotland
Melbourne place
Agriculture museum
Central library
Bridges
Elephant House
Bridges
2 x churches
Grayfriars Place
Greyfriars Bobby Grayfriars Kirk
Bedlam
Bristo Port and New Port Wall Map
Chamber Street
National Museum
Crown Court. The School of Arts
Heriot-Watt College Phrenological museum
Carved Heads
Chambers Statue
Playfair Statue
No.16 No.20
West College Steps
Guthrie Street
Sir Walter Scott
South Bridge
Old College Statue
South Bridge 2 x bridges over Cowgate
93 South Bridge free books
Marlin’s Wynd
Marlin’s Wynd was a narrow street built circa 1540 joining the High Street with the Cowgate.
Named after a French stonemason (John Merlouin) who first laid the setts (cobbles) of Edinburgh.
Blair Street
Blair Street was formed when the South Bridge was being built in 1768. To give access to the Cowgate from the
High Street, at that time Marlin’s Wynd and Pebble's Wynd were demolished in 1785, also the west side of Niddry Street. Blair Street as Hunter Square was named after Lord Provost Sir James Hunter Blair.
Cowgate
Cowgate Grassmarket Edinburgh was the road in to Edinburgh from the east. Previously the south Loch before drained circa 1300. Named after the gate in the Flodden wall that surrounded Edinburgh. The Gate was the way the farmers brought their stock (Cow's) to market. Through the Cow gate of the City Wall (Flodden Wall). Now it is the hub of pubs, restaurants, clubs accommodation, within walking distance of all the attractions, historic sites,
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South Bridge + Underground Vaults
The South Bridge was constructed circa 1788, due to the ground and valleys the bridge was constructed with
19 arches. The arch that spans the Cowgate is the only one that is visible. Underground can be seen vaults that were made due to the bridge. The vaults were occupied by tradesmen, shops and taverns the first underground shopping mall. Due to the conditions of the vaults with lack of light and air, the vaults were soon abandoned.
Free Cowgate Church (Stramash)
Church built in 1859, was built by Edinburgh architect Patrick Wilson.
The panel above the door reads;
'Erected and endowed from funds bequeathed by William Whyte Edinburgh MDCCCLXI’.
Guthrie Street | College Wynd
Guthrie Street was built to replace College Wynd and was named after Dr Thomas Guthrie the founder of the first Ragged School in 1841, which can be seen in Ramsay Lane of Castlehill Royal Mile Edinburgh. Guthrie Street is a link between Chambers Street and the Cowgate Edinburgh. There are steps from Chamber Street to Guthrie Street which was previously West College Street befor Chamber Street was built.
Walter Scott was born in College Wynd which was demolished and replaced with modern housing. The plaque can be seen on the wall at the corner of Guthrie Street and Chambers Street is to signify the location of the house where Sir Walter Scott was born in August 1771. Walter Scott's Birthplace Stone Guthrie Street Edinburgh
Old Fishmarket Close Swift’s Wynd Carmichael's Close
The Fish market was one of the casualties of the Great 1824 fire as it was destroyed. This close was originally known as Swift's Wynd a narrow street joining the Cowgate to High Street, the name recorded as far back as 1539. Alexander Swift owned a cellar at the head of the close and John Swift, a tenement. It then became Carmichael's Close in 1722 after Mr William Carmichael, advocate that lived there with his family. It was later renamed Fishmarket Close due to the fish market that was once active there. George Heriot known as “Jinglin’ Geordie”, the kings Jeweller and the founder of George Heriot’s Hospital (school), also lived in the close.
This was also a close that housed the first firefighting appliance.
At the foot of the Close on the west side was a property that was provided by the Council for the executioner. This gave the executioner easy access to both the lawn market and Grassmarket place of Execution by hanging or beheading. The house also provided a prison room for the condemned on the night before their demise.
Tailor’s Hall
The Incorporation of Tailors of the Canongate records go back as far as 1438 (National records of Scotland).
The incorporation of Tailors purchased land in the Cowgate in 1620. The site was where they built their meeting hall which was completed by the next year. In February 1638 a draft copy of the National Covenant was approved in the Tailor’s Hall with signatures from over 200 clergy. It was changed into a Playhouse, circa 1725 the building purchased 1755 and was extended in 1757 by the Argyle Brewery by the way of an upper floor. The buildings are now a bar and accommodation.. The National Covenant was first signed at Greyfriars churchyard Edinburgh on the 28th of February 1638 before travelling the country for signatures.
George IV Bridge
The 2 bridges that span the Cowgate in Edinburgh were built to allow access to the south of Edinburgh.
Tron Kirk which was for long the centre marker for Old Edinburgh. The George IV Bridge was completed in 1832 which started from the Lawnmarket and was a continuation of Bank Street and the Mound. Many houses and closes were demolished to make way for the bridges to enable easy connections to south Edinburgh. The offices of the Merchants Company of Edinburgh was where the arch of the George IV Bridge stands now. This was where the first ladies school was established by a gift from Mary Erskine in 1694, known as the Merchant Maiden Hospital.
James Connolly Birthplace
James Connolly was born in Edinburgh at 107 Cowgate on 5 June 1868. The first time he stood on Irish soil was as a British soldier at the age of fourteen. He was the secretary of the Scottish Socialist Federation in 1892 aged 24.
He also founded the Irish Socialist Republican Party whose aims were to secure the national and economic freedom of the Irish people. He started a weekly newspaper, the Workers’ Republic and the first publication was issued in August of 1898. At the age of 46 in 1914 he became Acting General Secretary of Irish Transport and General Workers Union. He formed an Anti-War Committee and as the leader he Committed the Labour movement to oppose recruitment and conscription to the British Army ‘we serve neither King nor Kaiser, but Ireland’. When the Secret military council of the I.R.B. Decided on an armed rising in 1916, Connolly took part in the preparations and in 1916 he had become convinced that a nationalist revolution was the only way to free Ireland from what he saw as imperial and capitalist oppression. He was sentenced to death for his part in the uprising and was executed in Kilmainham Jail Dublin 12 May 1916.
Merchants of Edinburgh – Merchant Maidens Hospital
Merchant Company of Edinburgh
The Merchant Company of Edinburgh was established in 1681. The previous name was the Guidry before it became a society. Their first meeting hall was in the Cowgate Edinburgh and they then moved to Hunter Square before moving to its final home of Hanover Street. The Merchant Company was a watch dog for Edinburgh looking after the concerns and needs of the people. Over time the wealthy would leave their estates to be administered by the Merchant Company by way of a trust. This resulted in with well-judged investments the Merchant Company become the largest land owners in Scotland. The Merchant Company in 1694 with a donation from Mary Erskine a widow, which established Mary Erskine School. With other donations and bequests and trusts, further education facilities were opened, George Watson’s College in 1741, George Watson was an accountant, and merchant banker and the first accountant of the Bank of Scotland, James Gillespie’s High School in 1803, James Gillespie was a local Tobacconist in the High Street Edinburgh and Daniel Stewart held an appointment in the Court of Exchequer, Daniel Stewart’s College in 1855 which is now ESMS (Erskine, Stewart, Melville Schools). John Watson’s School in built in 1828 at 75 Belford Road next to the Dean Cemetery. The Edinburgh Chamber of Commerce was established as an off shoot of the Merchant’s Society of Edinburgh in 1786.
Magdalen Chapel Cowgate
The Magdalen Chapel was built by Michael Macquhane and his wife Michael died in 1537 and his wife managed the completion of the chapel in 1542. The Magdalen Chapel was a chapel and Hospital for the poor. The Incorporation of Hammermen took over the running of the building in 1547. On the plaque above the door show their initials MM. JR. and the date of Janet Rynd's death 1553. The Chapel was a place of worship and also the guild Hall for the incorporation of Hammermen. The Hammermen were metal workers and tradesmen who became the trustees of the Chapel and attached building a hospital, which is now a hostel. Inside the Chapel is an amazing stain glass window which features the Royal Arms of Scotland, the Arms of Mary of Guise, Mary Queen of Scots. mother Also still in the Chapel is the Deacon of the Hammermen's Guild of Edinburgh chair which was made in 1708. There are many other artefacts from Scottish history on display in the Chapel please arrange a visit as there is much to see.
Memorial Plaque
The Rev. Robert Moffat D.D laid this stone 9th June 1877 opend 1903.
Robert Moffat was the father-in-law of David Livingstone the African explorer.
Magdalen Chapel Doorway Lintel
The Magdalen Chapel has a carved tablet at the entrance with initials and a date. there were also to carved figures which can be seen inside the chapel, One is of a bedeman (poor man) and the other is a Hammerman. The two figures depict the poor man holding out his hand to the Hammerman for help.The inscription above the door reads;
HE THAT HATH PITIE VPON THE POORE LENDETH UNTO
THE LORD AND THE LORD WILL RECOMPENCE HIM THAT
WHICH HE HETH GIUEN PRO: XIX. VERS XVII.
Medical Missionary Society | Livingstone House
Edinburgh Medical Missionary Society moved into 39 Cowgate in 1858 which was then owned by the Scottish Reformation Society. The EMMS (Edinburgh Medical Missionary Society and Livingstone Institute) rebuilt in 1877 and operated a dispensary for the local people. The building occupied from the corner of Candlemakers' Row to the Magdalen Chapel. Above the entrance on the corner are 13 carved heads. The building housed a dispensary, waiting rooms, lecture theatre, students' bedrooms (the Livingston Residence), a working men's club and 3 shops.
Cowgatehead Free Church
The Gothic church was founded in 1861 with money from William Whyte’s will. William Whyte bookseller to the Queen Dowager Adelaide wife of William IV. The stone panel on the tower above the door reads; 'Erected and endowed from funds bequeathed by William Whyte Edinburgh MDCCCLXI
Grapes Thistle Plums Devil Acorns Frog Knight’s Head English Rose
Grayfriars Monastry
The name "Greyfriars" derives from the grey robes worn by the monks. Greyfriars Franciscan Monastery founded by friars from the Netherlands circa 1450. In 1560 the Monastery was abandoned, a small part that still remains. The Greyfriars Kirk was built on the grounds and opened on 25th December 1620. The first church in Edinburgh to be built after the Reformation. In 1638 The National Covenant was signed Iin the Kirk, against Charles I’s attempts to impose Anglican practices. Part of the Kirkyard became a prison for 1200 Covenanters in 1679. Cowgatehead is were the Grayfriars Monestary Stood next to Knights Templar + Knights of St John’s housing Part of the Monestary door can be seen in the graveyard.
Knights Templar – Knights of St John
Following the suppression of the Knights Templar by papal bull in 1312, the assets and lands, of the Knights Templar in Scotland, were transferred to the Knights of St John, all have now gone. The site of Temple land was Cowgatehead next to where the Monastery once stood near the foot of Candlemakers Row.
Hunter’s Close
Captain John Porteous Lynching Grassmarket Edinburgh
Captain John Porteous Lynching in 1736 after 10 years being Captain of the City Guard John Porteous was lynched on 7 September 1736. Three smugglers/robbers were caught and imprisoned for carrying out a robbery.
William Hall, George Robertson and Andrew Wilson. At their trial William Hall was sentenced to transportation to the colonies for life, but Andrew Wilson and George Robertson were sentenced to hang and were imprisoned in the Tollbooth in Edinburgh’s High Street awaiting execution. George Robertson escaped and made his way out of Britain. However, Andrew Wilson was publicly hanged in the Grassmarket in April of 1736. A riot started and the City guard was called out, led by Captain John Porteous. Captain John Porteous instructed his men to fire above the heads of the crowd this made the riot even more heated, the shots had killed onlookers who were at their windows of their houses. With the crowd getting even more violent, Captain Porteous gave the order to shoot into the crowd and more were killed. Later that day Captain John Porteous was arrested and charged with murder. At his trial on 5 July 1736, he was convicted by a unanimous decision and found guilty of murder and sentenced to death. An angry mob, looking for justice stormed the Tolbooth prison, where Porteous was being held dragged him out, and beat him to near death. The mob then dragged the badly beaten Porteous down the West Bow to the Grassmarket, before hanging him from a dyer's pole in the Grassmarket.
Door Lintel Grassmarket Edinburgh
71 Grassmarket, The Lintel above the door Inscription: 1889 VITAM (LIFE) DIRIGAT (DIRECT)
Prior to this building there were housing for the Knights Templar.
Heriot Bridge Grassmarket Edinburgh
Heriot Bridge in the Grassmarket was an access road to Heriot Hospital (school) when it opened in 1628. The Heriot Bridge has long since been block by other school buildings. Heriot’s when built had its main entrance facing the Castle and then the Old Town of Edinburgh as Heriots School stood outside the city walls.
Heriot Bridge Artist: James Skene Watercolour - 1827
Heriot’s Brewery
John Jeffrey & Co. Ltd, purchased Heriot Brewery, Grassmarket, in 1837. Built a new brewery at Roseburn in 1880 and sold the old brewery in 1900 which became the largest in Scotland.
The Salvation Army Women’s Hostel
The Salvation Army Women’s Hostel stands beside the Vennel and the site of the West Port Gate at the west end of the Grassmarket. The area going up the hill was known as Portsburgh which evidence still remains with street signs.
Women’s Hostel Inscriptions
Inscriptions on the 2 stones on the Hostel Building at the West Port read;
Upper Stone
This stone was laid for | “the glory of god” | by Mrs Deamwell Booth | of the Salvation Army | February 6th 1911
Lower Stone
This stone was laid for | “the glory of god” | by Right Hon. William s Brown | The Lord Provost | February 6th 191
The Vennel @ West Port
The Vennel is an Alleyway from the Grassmarket that joins to Heriot Place and exits at Lauriston Place. There are a number of residence on the steps on both sides, the Vennel then opens up to the west and on the east is the Flodden Wall and a tower where it is joined to the Telfer Wall which continues to Lauriston Place the wall was the city boundary and all to the west was outside the protection of the City Wall (Flodden Wall). The Flodden Wall Was built 1513 and the Telfer Wall circa 1630, was added to protect Heriot’s Hospital (School) from invasion.
John Taillefer was the stone mason in charge of building the wall which it is named after.
The Vennel steps have also been rename 'The Pride of Miss Jean Brodie Steps'.
Flodden Tower + Telfer Wall
The Flodden Wall this is the only remaining lookout tower of the Flodden Wall
A window in the Flodden Tower, Castle View
Paving highlighting where the wall stood, across the Grassmarket between the Vennel and Granny Green Steps
The West Port (Gate) was demolished 1786
Tanner’s Close
West Port Murderers
The infamous Burke and Hare who lured women from the pubs of the Grassmarket, murdered them and sold their bodies to Dr Knox of the Medical School for use in autopsies for students. Tanner’s Close was demolished in 1903.
Children’s Rhyme about Burke and Hare
Up the close and down the stair,
In the house with Burke and Hare,
Burke’s the Butcher, Hare’s the thief,
Knox, the boy who buys the beef.
Burke and Hare Murders Edinburgh
Burke and Hare were serial killers in Edinburgh from December 1827 to October 1828. Both from Ireland and came to Edinburgh for work as labourers. The murders they carried out were also known as the West Port murders.
The killings were carried out by, William Burke and William Hare. They sold the bodies of their victims, 17 in all to
Dr Robert Knox, to be used in the medical school for teaching students. Burke and Hare would spend their evenings in the White Hart Inn in the Grassmarket where they would drink with potential victims, leave with them and take them to an ally or their lodgings in Tanner’s close, where they would kill them with a form of strangulation so as not to damage the corpse. Burke was the only one prosecuted for the crimes and was hanged in Edinburgh on 28 January 1829. His skeleton hangs in the Anatomical Museum in the Medical School Teviot Row.
Hare died penniless in London in 1858. Part of Burke’s sentence is that his body was to be put on public display for all eternity free of charge. There are more items on display e.g. death masks of Burke and Hare.
A wallet made from the skin of Burke.
Royal Jousting Tournaments
Chapel Wynd Edinburgh
Beneath the Castle walls the Royal Jousting Tournaments once took place. This was the ultimate test for Knights from many countries. Held by King James IV (last king to die in battle 1513) during the reign of the Chivalrous and splendid James IV (who was crowned in Kelso) Edinburgh became celebrated throughout all Europe as the scene of Knightly feats. The favourite place for Royal tournaments was a spot of ground just below the Castle rock and near the King’s stables. There, James in particular, assembled the nobles by proclamation, for jousting, offering such needs of honour as a golden-head lance, or similar favours. Presented by his own hand or that of some beautiful woman. Knights came from all countries to take part in these jousts. During the reign of James the IV Edinburgh became the resort of men high in every department of science and art circa 1500. Commemoration of royal jousting tournaments during reign of James IV (1483 - 1513)
King’s Bridge (King George IV)
The King’s Bridge was built circa 1832 and opened in 1833. This was a vital link to allow access to the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle from the new suburbs of Edinburgh in the West. Prior to George IV Bridge opening.
Bridging King’s Stable Road which leads to Lothian Road and the West End.
The Flodden Wall Grassmarket Edinburgh
From Granny Green Steps across to The Vennel in the Grassmarket is where the Flodden Wall stood as a protection against invading armies. The Flodden Wall, was the defensive wall built to surround the City of Edinburgh in 1513 against attacks from the English. The first part of the wall visible in The Vennel and the final part standing is in the Pleasance. In 1513 the Scots waged a disastrous attack on the English at Flodden Field. James IV was killed in the action, along with 10,000 other Scots. An extension was built to protect the Heriot Hospital (school). Named after the master mason who built Telfer Wall John Taillefer (1628 – 1636).
Paving highlighting where the wall stood, across the Grassmarket between Granny Green Steps and the Vennel
Paving stones mark where the Flodden Wall once stood. Each with a verse of the poem ‘Marmion’ by Sir Walter Scott
From Flodden ridge,
The Scots beheld the English host
Leave Barmoor Wood, their evening post
And headful watched them as they crossed
The Till by Twizell Bridge.
High sight it is, and haughty, while
They dive into the deep defile;
Beneath the cavern’d cliff they fall,
Beneath the castle’s airy wall.
By rock, by oak, by Hawthorn tree,
Troop after troop are disappearing;
Troop after troop their banners rearing
Upon the eastern bank you see.
Pouring down the rocky glen,
Where flows the sullen Till,
And rising from the dim-wood glen,
Standards on standards, men on men,
In slow procession still,
And sweeping o’er the Gothic arch,
And pressing on in ceaseless march,
To gain the opposing hill.
Sir Walter Scott
1771 – 1832
New Greyfriars Mission Buildings Grassmarket Edinburgh
The Greyfriars Mission building was built in 1884 as a part of the Robertson Memorial Mission Buildings. The three buildings were a church a shop and housing. The wall tablet Inscription reads New Greyfriars Mission Buildings to the glory of God and in loving memory of the Rev. William Robertson DD, for nearly 40 years minister of this Parish. AD 1884. The Church building is now a bar restaurant and brewery.
Grassmarket 500th Anniversary Plaque
This plaque was unveiled |on the 3rd of October 1977 by the | Rt. Hon. Kenneth Borthwick. | Lord Provost of the City of Edinburgh | to commemorate the 500th anniversary | of a reorganisation of Edinburgh markets. | Authorised by King James III. | On the 3rd of October 1477. | The Cattle Market was situated at | the western end of the Grassmarket | and in King’s Stables Road | this area was then just outside the Burgh.
The Beehive Inn Grassmarket Edinburgh
The Beehive Inn
The actual door of the death cell that was in the Calton Jail in Regent Road is on the first floor of the Beehive Inn.
The White Hart Inn Grassmarket Edinburgh
The White Hart Inn Edinburgh was established in 1516, The White Hart Inn is one of the oldest and most historic pubs in Edinburgh. Past visitors have included the poets Robert Burns and William Wordsworth. The murderers Burke and Hare also were regulars in the pub in the late 1820s, as this is where they were to lure their victims back to their nearby lodgings, where they were murdered and their bodies sold to Dr Knox for medical research and study by students of the University medical school. During the First World War, on 2 April 1916, a German Zeppelin bombing raid was mounted over Edinburgh. During the bombing, a bomb exploded on the pavement outside a Public House, injuring four, one of whom died of shrapnel injuries.
Zeppelin Airship Paving Slab Grassmarket Edinburgh
This Stone marks the site of a bomb dropped from Zeppelin Airship L14 on the night of 2nd April 1916 on that night 2 Zeppelin Airships dropped bomb on Leith and Edinburgh. Some of the places they were dropped in Edinburgh were; 39 Lauriston Place, 183 Causewayside, Marchmont Crescent, Belford Place, Lothian Road, the Castle Rock near the king’s Bridge, 16 Marshall Street, Nicolson Street, 69 St Leonards Hill, Royal Infirmary at Lauriston and Coltbridge Gardens. There were a number of deaths and injured plus substantial damage to property.
Castle Wynd South
Castle Wynd South is a path and steps that gives access to Johnston Terrace from the Grassmarket.
The Steps named after Patrick Geddes (biologist, sociologist, geographer, and philanthropist) Best known as a town planner.
A further set of steps Castle Wynd North gives access to Castlehill and the entrance to Edinburgh Castle.
Originally a medieval (1427) thoroughfare wide enough to allow livestock and carts to be moved from the castle down to the cattle and horse markets in the Grass Market. The arch is believed to be entrance to a cellar of an old store. James Thomson was a wine merchant circa 1700 (present housing Thomson Court named after him. The old wall at the back is believed to be the King’s Wall (1450) the first wall protecting Edinburgh.
The Last Drop Pub
The name of the pub is to the last hanging in the Grassmarket. As the pub is located immediately next to the gallows for public hangings. The Pub was built (1635) from the remnants of the tenements previously on the site, original seventeenth century stone. As all old buildings connect with death there is said to be the ghost of a young girl who likes to play pranks on customers and staff the staff.
82 Grassmarket
The building built firstly in 1634 and rebuilt in 1929-30. The Lintel above the doorway is dated 1634 and inscribed 'Blessed be God for all his Giftis' with initials on both sides, IL (James Lightbodie) and GK (Geillis Kniblo). A Scottish custom for the newlyweds to inscribe their initials above the door of their house.
With the date they married or moved in.
Margaret Dickson
‘Half hangit Maggie Dickson’
One famous execution on 2nd August 1724 was of a Margaret Dickson of Inveresk a young women separated from her husband. (She was to be known as ‘Half hang it Maggie Dickson’). Her crime was concealment of pregnancy in the case of a dead child. (Not to be her husbands). She was said to have killed and disposed of the child’s body.
Her execution was carried out by the hangman, after hanging for the prescribed time she was put into a coffin which the lid was nailed firmly closed. A fight broke out between the friends of Maggie and a surgeon’s apprentices who wanted the body for investigation a regular thing in these times. Her friends were successful and took the coffin on a wheelbarrow but the uneven roads caused shaking and banging of the coffin and at Peffermill her friends herd banging on the coffin and found Maggie to be alive. By the time they arrived in Musselburgh she walked the final distance to her home at Inveresk. Maggie had served her sentence of hanging and lived a long life and had several children. When Maggie went out people would look at her and shout out to her
“Half hang it Maggie” when she walked past them in the street.
Grassmarket Mission Grassmarket Edinburgh
The Grassmarket Mission was founded by James Fairbairn in 1886. In 1930, the Mission purchased the building next door (at 96 Grassmarket) and constructed a new Mission Hall Alexander Barrie, was appointed Superintendent in 1916, Mission became known colloquially as “The Barries”. The Mission was there to help the poor and needy of the Grassmarket in 1989 the decision was made to sell the Mission Halls. The Grassmarket Community Project was incorporated and funded by The Grassmarket Mission in 2010 and is still going strong. The Plaque reads;
Grassmarket Mission | Undenominational | Erected in Memory of | James Fairbairn
Founder and First Superintendent |
Of This Mission | Died 3rd ay 1894 | “His works Do Follow Him “.
Currie’s Close Grassmarket
1 Currie’s Close “Wee Pub” Scotland’s smallest pub
Measuring approximately 4.5 meters by 5.2 meters
Can be found in Currie’s Close which ran from Lanmarket – Grassmarket. The sign is there but the house were demolished in This close seems to be the same as Curror's Close, with its vennel
leading from it to the Grassmarket.
There were many associated with the close James Currie, Hugh Curry,
John Curror in Curror' s Close
The Grassmarket Gallows Grassmarket Edinburgh
The Grassmarket Edinburgh 1477 to 1911 was one of Edinburgh’s main markets for horse and cattle.
The Grassmarket was also a setting for public executions.
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Under Scots Law at that time, as she had served her punishment, she was free to go. Only later the words “until dead” were added to the sentence of hanging. You can find the pub named after her just a few yards from where she was hanged. The shadow of a gibbet is marked on the paving stones where the former gallows were. The inscription around the stone reads. On this Spot many Martyrs and Covenanters died for the Protestant Faith
Last Man Executed in Grassmarket
Inscription on the pavement reads. The last person to be hanged from the Grassmarket gallows was James Andrews on the 4th February 1784. The names and dates of others hanged are on the steel boards.
The Grassmarket Cross
THIS CROSS (ORIGINALLY A CRUCIFIX) WAS AT ONE TIME IMPOSED UPON THE WALL OF THE HOUSE WHICH STOOD IMMEDIATELY OPPOSITE THE SITE OF THE GALLOWS IN THE GRASSMARKET USED FOR PUBLIC EXECUTIONS. IT WAS THE LAST OBJECT TO BE SEEN BY THE SUFFERERS BEFORE DEATH. AMONG OTHERS WHO WERE EXECUTED AT THE SPOT WERE MANY WHO SUFFERED FOR CONSCIENCE SAKE. NOT IMPROBABLY SOME MEMBERS OF THIS CONGREGATION. IT IS NOT UNTRUE THEREFORE TO DESCRIBE IT AS A MARTYR’S CROSS AND NOT UNFITTING THAT IT SHOULD FIND PLACE HERE. WHEN THE HOUSE WAS DEMOLISHED THE CROSS WAS GIVEN TO ROBERT FARQUHAR SHAW STEWART WHOSE FAMILY PRESENTED IT TO OLD SAINT PAUL’S.
West Bow | Old Doorway
Old Door entrance to building with inscription that reads; God for all his gifts 1616. This is an old entrance to the corner building of the West Bow and Grassmarket. Look up at the windows to see more old parts of the building.
West Bow - Wellhead
West Bow or Bow Foot Well was erected in 1674. The West Bow is a continuation of Victoria Street at the east end of the Grassmarket. This was the first well head built to supply water to the Grassmarket from the reservoir at Castle Hill. Until 1820 these square stone well heads were the only way in which the thousands of people of Edinburgh could access drinking water. The reservoir was filled by the springs from the Pentland hills.
West Bow Wellhead Plate
The inscription reads;
The Bow Well stonework was restored in 2008 as part of the 12 monuments
Restoration project, a partnership between The City of Edinburgh Council and Edinburgh World Heritage.
​In 1674 Lord Provost Sir Andrew Ramsay instigated Edinburgh's firsts Piped Water supply.
Robert Mylne, the king's master mason built the well, supervised by Sir William Bruce.
The surveyor was George Sinclair and Peter Brauss a Dutch engineer, made the lead pipe work.
​The Old City Coat of Arms motto
'NISI DOMINUS FRUSTRA' Meaning ‘Labour in vain without the lord'.
(On the other side
'VIRTUTE AQUISITUR HONOS' Meaning 'Honour is acquired by virtue'.
Major Thomas Weir
The West Bow had many well-known residents, one of which was a Major Thomas Weir born circa 1600 -1670
(Head of Edinburgh’s Town Guard) who everyone thought was a wizard and practices the Dark arts. He was burned at the stake. Many were convinced after his death he haunted the West Bow. There were many claims of sightings which have been written about. His house was left vacant for over 100 years and when an old soldier and his wife took up residence on the first night they awoke to the sight of a ghostly figure and left the property the next day, the house lay empty for circa 100 years before it was demolished. Major Weir’s Land were the houses on the east side of the West Bow no.10 and at the head of what is the upper bow now. Rebuilt in 1879
West Bow - Murder and Sorcery
Lord Ruthven also was a resident of the West Bow, known as the man who was first to stab David Rizzio,
Mary Queen of Scots secretary, before Lord Darnley, Mary Queen of Scots husband dealt the final blow.
This took place in the Palace of Holyrood House on the 9th of March 1566.
More recently the West Bow has been linked with J K Rowling’s Harry Potter. With the old stories of the wizard the winding narrow road with high tenements the look of Diagon Alley with the Harry Potter shop and Witchery Tours.
West Bow | Victoria Terrace | Victoria Street
The West Bow Edinburgh is part of the old town it then changes to Victoria street the New Town
West Bow in Grassmarket Edinburgh has been nicknamed Diagon Alley because of similarities with the street in Harry Potter, with Witches, warlocks and demons, magic and intrigue. Accommodation, shops, restaurants, bars, a street that joins the old town with the new and has secret steps that take you to Edinburgh Castlehill.
Victoria Terrce an Victoria Street (India Buildings)
Victoria Street created circa 1835 is a continuation of the West Bow. The West Bow previously before George IV Bridge was built a Z shape narrow Wynd that connected the Grassmarket with Castlehill and the Lawnmarket. Now there are steps on the north side that connect to Victoria Terrace and the Upper Bow, Castlehill and the Royal Mile.
The building with arches on Victoria Terrace was built in 1866 as the United Original Secession Church it closed in 1900 and and later in 1988 became the Quaker Meeting house. On the south side of the Street is India Buildings built 1866. 1-6 Victoria Street, was occupied by the British Linen Bank, the Scottish Chamber of Agriculture, and the Geological Survey of Scotland. In 2022 the Vigin Hotel opened, on construction there were many medieval artifacts, ruins of previous buildings found dating to the 10th century. Inscription 'Dominus Providebit.' The Lord Will Provide
George IV Bridge
The Bridge was named after King George the IV after his visit to Edinburgh in 1822. The bridge was completed in 1832 as part of the Improvement Act of 1827. George IV Bridge was built to connect the South Side district of Edinburgh to the New Town. The foundation stone was laid in August 1827 and the bridge finally opened to all in 1836. There are only two points visible showing the height of George IV Bridge over the Cowgate and at Merchant Street. It starts at the Royal Mile Lawnmarket and continues to Bristo Place and Forrest Road. Also Chamber Street where the National Museum of Scotland is and on the Bridge stands the National Library of Scotland.
Melbourne Place
Melbourne Place was demolished in 1966 to enable the council to build an office block for their own use. The halls were first opened in 1852 however the Royal Medical Society was founded in 1737 and gained the royal charter in 1778. This Plaque marks the site of the Hall of the Royal Medical Society from 1852 - 1965 where many Edinburgh medical men delivered their first dissertation. It was demolished by the city council to enable them to build an office block which has been changed into a hotel.
Central Library George IV Bridge Edinburgh
Central Library was opened in 1890 and was the first public library building in Edinburgh.
The Central Library was funded by Andrew Carnegie. However the first recording of a library in Edinburgh was in 1696 in High School Yards with 120 books and a further donation of 200 books by T Kincaid in 1709.
Bridges over Cowgate and Market Street
George IV Bridge was built to give access to Edinburgh’s Southside and spans the gap that joins the Lawnmarket on the Royal Mile with Chamber Street in the south. The foundation stone was laid in August 1827 and the bridge finally opened to all in 1836. There are only two points visible showing the height of George IV Bridge over the Cowgate and at Merchant Street. The Bridge was named after King George the IV after his visit to Edinburgh in 1822. The visible bridge over Merchant Street and a view of Greyfriars Graveyard view down Cowgate towards Holyrood Palace and Arthur Seat.
The Elephant House (Harry Potter)
J K Rowling is most famous as the creator of the Harry Potter stories. She wrote the first part of Harry Potter in the Elephant House Café on George IV Bridge, Edinburgh. George Heriot’s School in Lauriston Place is said to be the famous Hogwarts College of Magic portrayed in the Harry Potter movies and the platform in the Waverley Station is where the Train left for Hogwarts.
The inscription on the plaque reads;
Made famous as the place of inspiration to writers such as J.K. Rowling who sat writing much of her early novels in the back room overlooking Edinburgh Castle. Ian Rankin author of Rebus novels and Alexander McCall- Smith have both also frequented The Elephant House as well as many other writers.
Augustine Congregational Church
The first church building North College Street Chapel opened 1802 then renamed Argyle Square Chapel 1840, both of which are now in Chamber Street the Church is in George IV Bridge.
Bristo Place church built as a replacement for a chapel which was demolished circa 1855 to make way for the
Phrenological Museum in Chambers Street now the Anatomy Museum Teviot Place.
After construction of the new George IV Bridge (1832), Augustine was opened in 1861
Augustine Congregational Church Martyr's Free Church
Martyr's Free Church 26 George IV Bridge
The building was constructed in 1859 for the Reformed Presbyterian congregation and was initially named Martyr's Free Church for the Reformed Presbyterian Congregation. De-consecrated as a church in 1999 and opened in 2000 as a pub.
Greyfriars Bobby Statue
Greyfriars Bobby was a Skye terrier who became known in 19th-century Edinburgh after spending 14 years guarding the grave of his owner, John Gray. Bobby himself died in 1872. A year later a statue was erected at the top of Candlemakers’ Row across from the Greyfriars Kirkyard. There is also a red granite headstone in Greyfriars kirkyard near the gate. Have a stroll around the Greyfriars Kirkyard and see many famous and powerful people of old Edinburgh. Greyfriars Bobby died 14th January 1872 age 16 years. Let his loyalty and devotion be a lesson to us all.
Greyfriars Bobby Plaque
The Plaque underneath the statue of the dog reads; a tribute to the affectionate fidelity of Greyfriars Bobby in 1858 this faithful dog followed the remains of his master to Greyfriars Kirkyard and lingered near the spot until his death in 1872.
With permission erected by the Baroness Burdett Coutts.
Candlemakers' Row
Candlemakers' Row was once the main thoroughfare from the Grassmarket out of Edinburgh linking with Jamaica Street (now Chamber Street) which ended at Blackfriars Abbey (foot of Infirmary Street). Candlemakers' Row winds up from the Grassmarket at Cowgatehead to Greyfriars Place at George IV Bridge and Chamber Street where the Scottish National Museum Stands. At the top of Candlemakers' Row is where the statue of Greyfriars Bobby can be found an icon of the City of Edinburgh. A small street of to the east halfway up Candlemakers' Row (Merchant Street) has restaurants, pubs and accommodation and the George IV Bridge can be sent stretching over the street. This street is a dead end. On the west side of Candlemakers' Row stands Greyfriars Graveyard, where many famous Edinburgh people are buried where Ghostly goings on with haunted graves and unexplained noises.
Candlemakers’ Hall
The Ancient Corporation of Candlemakers' Hall stood close to the Greyfriars gates on the west side of Candlemakers’ Row. This is where the street name originated. The Candlemakers' Hall was built in 1722 and still can be seen today. The Row was where all the Candlemakers’ of Edinburgh would make candles and the smell was on occasion so strong that residents of Candlemakers’ Row tried to stop the trade.
Greyfriars Kirk + Greyfriars Museum
Greyfriars Kirk takes its name from the Franciscan friary which was previously on this site. Greyfriars Kirk building was completed in 1620 the first church to be constructed in Scotland following the Reformation. The signing of the National Covenant took place in Greyfriars Kirk on 28 February 1638. In a field nearby, in the 18th century 1200 Covenanters were imprisoned. A section of this field was incorporated into the churchyard as vaulted tombs and the area became known as the Covenanters' Prison. You will see enclosed vaults and metal fenced cages called mort safes as a deterrent to grave robbers taking the bodies from their resting place to use in the medical school for autopsy and scientific experiments. The famous grave robbers of the time were (Burke and Hare). Greyfriars Cemetery is said to be haunted by the ghost of 'Bloody' George Mackenzie who was buried here in 1691. His Spirit is said to cause bruising, bites and cuts on those who come into contact with the spirit or touch his tomb. Some visitors have reported feeling strange sensations. Take the ghost tour and find out for yourself. Don’t miss visiting Greyfriars Museum for the history and mystery of the graveyard and Kirk.
Chambers Street
The streets are all part of the old town area all with street names being changed.
The First known name for the street which extended from Candlemaker Row at George IV Bridge included Chambers Street and Infirmary Street finishing in High School Yards was called Jamaica Street.
(Ainslie’s map of Edinburgh 1580 – 1919). It was changed to Chambers Street in 1867 after William Chambers Lord Provost of Edinburgh for four years. The main attraction in Chambers Street is the National Museum of Scotland.
National Museum of Scotland
The National Museum of Scotland houses outstanding international collections from Science and Industry, The Natural World, Decorative Arts plus the History of Scotland from its geological beginnings to the 21st century and many other wonderful and interesting exhibits. The museum was modernised after a 2 year closure and was re-opened in July 2011. There are two parts to the building, the former Museum of Scotland and the modern extension of the building opened in 1998. The former Royal Museum opened in 1866. There are many things for adults and children to do and see on a cold wet summer day, such as becoming an astronaut. The museum is on 7 floors and has lifts and stairways connecting each area. Enter the Museum from the new extension and you will come across Sir Jackie Stewart’s Formula One Car.
There is also a café and restaurant. Entry is free.
William Chambers Statue
The statue of William Chambers stands at the National Museum of Scotland in Chambers Street. William Chambers was the Lord Provost of Edinburgh from 1865 to 1869. Look at the panels on the base of the statue. He was a bookseller, printer and publisher. He was also responsible for the restoration of St Giles Cathedral. Chambers Street was named after him in 1867.
The picture below shows the statue of William Chambers.
The Statue was renovated and moved from the centre of the road a few years ago
William Chambers Statues William Playfair
William Playfair Born Benvie Dundee 1790 – 1857 The Statue of William Playfair Stands outside the National Museum of Scotland in Chambers Street close to the Playfair Library in the University of Edinburgh Building. William Playfair was a renowned architect and a leader of architectural methods.
The School of Arts of Edinburgh
Heriot-Watt history was started as the School of Arts of Edinburgh by Scottish businessman Leonard Horner on 16 October 1821 in Niddry Street as the world's first mechanics' institute, providing working men with education in technical subjects.
They moved to a building in Adam Square in 1837. In 1852 it changed name to Watt Institution and School of Arts. The statue of Watt was unveiled in May 1854 Adam Square was demolished in 1870 for Chamber street to be built, they then moved to 25 Chambers Street in 1874. The Watt Institution officially became Heriot-Watt College in 1885 when they merged with The George Heriot Trust. The statue remained on Chambers Street until 1990, when it was moved to its current location at Heriot-Watt’s Riccarton Campus.
Edinburgh’s Phrenological Museum
Crown Office, 23 – 25 Chambers Street, Edinburgh was the site of Edinburgh’s Phrenological museum.
It then became Heriot Watt College and the Crown Office.
George Heriot; A goldsmith and banker to King James VI, who left his fortune to fund education in Edinburgh.
Leonard Horner; An educational and social reformer who founded the trailblazing Edinburgh School of Arts in
1821, the world’s first mechanics’ institute.
George Combe President of the Edinburgh Phrenological Society, Lawyer and was a Scottish lawyer and a
spokesman of the phrenological movement for over 20 years. He founded the Edinburgh Phrenological Society with his brother Andrew in 1820 and wrote The Constitution of Man in 1828. The four heads of prominent contributors to the Society of Phrenology: Franz Joseph Gall, Johann Spurzheim, George Combe and Andrew Combe originally this was the main door to the museum No23 which closed in 1887.
Franz Joseph Gall Johann Spurzheim Andrew Combe George Combe
16 + 20 Chamber Street Edinburgh
A medical school opened at 20 Chambers Street in 1878, featuring anatomical teaching by James Cossar Ewart.
16 Chamber Street French-Renaissance styled building was built in 1878 and opened as a teacher training college.
No16 No.20
Guthrie Street | College Wynd
Guthrie Street was built to replace College Wynd and was named after Dr Thomas Guthrie the founder of the first Ragged School in 1841, which can be seen in Ramsay Lane of Castlehill Royal Mile Edinburgh. Guthrie Street is a link between Chambers Street and the Cowgate Edinburgh. There are steps from Chamber Street to Guthrie Street which was previously West College Street befor Chamber Street was built. Walter Scott was born in College Wynd which was demolished and replaced with modern housing. The plaque can be seen on the wall at the corner of Guthrie Street and Chambers Street is to signify the location of the house where Sir Walter Scott was born in August 1771. Walter Scott's Birthplace Stone Guthrie Street Edinburgh
Kirk O’ Fields
A description of the land and history of Kirk O’ Fields Prior to the building of the present college. In medieval Edinburgh the site of the University of Edinburgh where the Old College stands today belonged to the Abbey of Holyrood and at that time the 13th century collegiate Church of St Mary in the Fields stood on the same site. The area known at that time as Kirk o’ Fields. The church was damaged in 1544 by King Henry the VIII’s troops during the Burning of Edinburgh and became a ruin circa 1550. The University of Edinburgh was granted the site and opened in 1583. A one room school house for 30 pupils. The Old College has not change since it was built in 1789.
Inscription Above Gate
Academia Jacobi VI. Scotorum Regis Anno Post Christum Natum MDLXXXII Instituta; Sed Amplitudine Crescente Recens Extructa; Regnante Georgio III. Principe Munificentissimo; Urbis Praefecto Thoma Elder; Academiae Primario
Gulielmo Robertson. Architecto Roberto Adam. MDCCLXXXIX."
TRANSLATION
The Academy of James VI. King of Scots was founded in the year after Christ, 1582; ​​but was recently built with increasing scope; in the reign of George III. Most Generous Prince; Thomas Elder, Governor of the City; William Robertson,
Principal of the Academy. Architect Robert Adam. 1789."
New College University of Edinburgh (Known as the Old College)
On top of the dome of the Old College stands a statue for over 100 years holding a torch called Golden Boy. Modelled by a local boxer Toni Hall and created by John Hutchison. in 1888, the 6 foot (2 m) statue was first unveiled to the residents of Edinburgh.
New College Plaque
The foundation stone was laid on the 16th November 1789.
This plaque commemorates the 200th anniversary of the stone being laid.
University of Edinburgh Plaques
There are a number of medallions on the walls of the Old College (known as the New College) in the quadrangle of the University of Edinburgh on South Bridge and also history story boards The medallions below give information on who the people of the medallions are.
1 Robert Rollock,
born 1555 died 1599 first principal and first professor to teach at Edinburgh University 1583.
He was previously the Regent of St Andrews University in 1580.
2 Robert Adam,
Architect of the Edinburgh University New College 1789.
3 James Boswell,
Advocate, traveller, journalist. In 1753-1758: Boswell attended the University of Edinburgh.
Discovered by scholars in the 1920s, Boswell's long-lost journals was one of the major literary discoveries of
the 20th century. In his detailed and honest journal entries from the early 1760's until shortly before his
death, we get his unique first-hand observations of life and personalities in the second half of the 18th century.
4 James Miranda Barry
lived as a man and is believed to be the first female graduate of the University of
Edinburgh in 1812. She was also an army surgeon and Inspector General of hospitals in Canada.
5 William Henry Playfair
Designed the quadrangle in the New University College 1815.
6 James Lorimer,
Regius Professor of Public Law at Edinburgh University for 28 years.
7 William James
He was invited to Edinburgh University to give a lecture at the Gifford Lectures 1901-1902 Gifford lectures
appointment is one of the most prestigious honours in Scottish academia.
1 ROBERT ROLLOCK
4 JAMES MIRANDA BARRY
2 ROBERT ADAM
5 WILLIAM HENRY PLAYFAIR
3 JAMES BOSWELL
6 JAMES LORIMER
7 WILLIAM JAMES
University of Edinburgh Law School
First Chair in Law
Charles Areskine(Erskine) born Dumfries 1680 attended the High School in Edinburgh before St Andrews University. He became regent of the University of Edinburgh at the age of 20 in November 1700 in 1707 became the first Chair in Law, the Regius Chair of Public Law and the Law of Nature and Nations. He was also Lord Tinwald, a Member of Parliament, served as Solicitor General, Lord Advocate and was Lord Justice Clerk until his death in 1763 age 83.
Talbot Rice Art Gallery
The Talbot Rice Gallery was named after David Talbot Rice professor of Fine Art at Edinburgh University and an Art historian. In 1967 Talbot Rice became Vice Principal of the University of Edinburgh. He died in Edinburgh in March 1972. The Gallery can be found in the University of Edinburgh Old College on South Bridge. Entrance is in the far south west corner of the quadrangle.
South Bridge
The Southside of Edinburgh was only accessible after the South Bridge had been built. Built on 19 large stone arches The foundation stone of the South Bridge was laid 1 August 1785 by Lord Haddo who was the Grand Master Mason of Scotland. The South Bridge opened in 1788 to pedestrians and traffic to give direct access to the south of Edinburgh. To make way for the South Bridge many closes were demolished. West side of Niddry Wynd,
Marlin’s Wynd now Blair Street, Peeble’s Wynd, thought to be the oldest wynd dating back to circa 1470 and Kennedy Close. All part of the High Street. The Tower at Portobello which still stands was built in 1785 by Mr James Cunningham from stones window sills and lintels from properties that were knocked down to allow the South Bridge to be built. The South Bridge is visible from the Cowgate where it passes over the street.